Luang Prabang, Laos
Just five days from entering, I decided to leave this country.
Destinations I considered visiting:
Nong Kiaw is a beautiful place but far out of my way as it is north.
Vang Vieng is south, and also lovely, but I hear it is a tourist party town. I don't care too much for river tubing, nor caves, so I am opting out.
Vientiane, as exotic as it seems, sounds like a boring capital based on my conversations with travelers who flew into it. While I'm sure it will grow a great deal with a high speed rail line, I feel like it is not a priority for me right now.
Instead, I want to make my way towards the southern islands of Thailand and perhaps Indonesia. But I must discuss my impressions of Luang Prabang.
It's a small city with many beautiful temples, situated by forested mountains in the beautiful countryside of northern Laos. It's home to three major ethnic groups: Lao, Khmu, and Mhong. It features French architecture and bakeries, drawing scores of francophone tourists. The coffee is decent, the food is cheap, and the Lao massage is worth experiencing. In terms of music and nightlife, options are limited. In fact, I've found Thai pop to be more commonly played than Lao pop--ironic, since almost all I heard in Thailand was western pop.
What makes this quiet city amazing? The land and the people. The land is absolutely beautiful, old-growth forests canvassing hills and mountains with lush greens. Two rivers converge, carving caves and waterfalls into the earth. The air during this early dry season carries heat with relatively low humidity, encouraging the flow of life from algae and insects to birds and mammals. And lots of geckos! Villages scattered throughout the countryside offer a glimpse into the simpler lifestyles that modern cities reject.
Above all, I found the young people to be extremely friendly and eager to learn English, improving their quality of life.
Every evening I visited Big Brother Mouse, a nonprofit organization intended to foster child literacy and English language practice. I spoke with many children there and at the handicraft night market, where many students seek additional conversation practice with tourists. I quickly grew weary of the set questions: where are you from, who are you traveling with, how many people are in your family, what do you do for work, how many languages do you speak. When possible, I turned the tables: what is your favorite school subject, what do you want to do after school, do you have a boy/girlfriend, do you like to cook, what is your favorite Lao food. At times, I became very emotional hearing their answers. Laos is an underdeveloped country, and many of these (mostly Mhong) kids can only dream of new opportunities. Education is not filling a bucket but lighting a fire, the brochure says. Truly, once the students practice enough to be comfortable speaking with foreigners, they enjoy it. Nearly everyone I asked answered that English is their favorite subject, I think for that reason. Many aspire to work with foreigners, either in international business or tourism. All told me that employment opportunities are limited or even absent for Laotian college graduates if they cannot speak English. They all want to travel someday, to Australia and America and Japan; first, they must overcome the extreme obstacles of poverty. As a native English speaker with a solid education, I felt that helping them practice and learn new words is the least I can do to help them realize their dreams. Their enthusiasm warms my heart and brings tears to my eyes. They really are awesome!
I love them!
Next time, I hope to meet these kids and witness how much they've grown. I only hope I will be in a better position to help them. The young adults who work at tourist-frequented restaurants and bars make me feel the same. They all want to learn, so earnestly. I want to come back to Luang Prabang soon, for them.
Moreso than the beautiful land and waterfalls and rivers, these young Laotian people have made my short journey in this country unforgettable. They really inspire me! My heart feels so full with love for them.
I could stay here forever, so I think I should leave. But I will return! I promise to see these people grow and succeed, and to help them however I can.
Bonus pics: